The City of Light

by Sharon Kitchens

 

 La Ville Lumièr, The City of Light

A city of medieval beauty, picturesque bridges, and corner cafes meant for sipping espressos and people-watching. The Seine, the Eiffel Tower, swoon-worthy pains au chocolat. Jewel-like tea rooms. Gothic architecture. Shakespeare and Company (English-language bookshop near Notre Dame). Parisian chic. Effortless glamour and timeless allure. 

 

It is in this mythological place that Cara Black set her Aimee Leduc series. Twenty books featuring a half-French, half-American private investigator with a penchant for secondhand haute couture. A young woman with computer skills who ponders the darkest sides of Paris while dunking buttery croissants into steaming bowls of café au lait. 

 

Much attention is paid in Black’s writing to Aimee’s red painted lips, short brown spiky hair, makeup routine, and statement making accessories. The black jeans (or form-fitting tight black skirt) and well-cut black wool jacket and boots. Her “dressed-to-kill” look.

 

Threatening faxes, graffitied threats, and hostile cars are no match for the buttery caramel aroma drifting across the centuries-old cobblestone courtyard. A restaurant known for its upside-down apple tart.

 

There are national museums and red geraniums spilling from window boxes. Beautiful parks where visitors may stroll under arches, 17^th century mansions. City gardens with sculptures and benches. 

 

Black knows the city. She uses real Paris addresses that compliment scenes. Which areas are populated by what community, which are livelier quieter. Her routes make sense—she doesn’t plop you down in one place and pick you up again across the city. The light and ambiance of the city come through in flying colors.

 

My only criticism of Black’s work is her indulgence in Aimee’s appearance. The woman has as many fashion changes as Carrie from “Sex in the City” and she’s supposed to be scraping by and solving cases. It pulls me away from the story. Granted, I only began noticing this several books into the series. 

 

The first, Murder in the Marais, was published by Soho Press in 1999. If you’re going to read something from the series definitely start here! The early books are Black’s best writing and you really do need to get to know Aimee before she evolves. Also, it’s a really strong story!

Each book is set in a different administrative district (arrondissements) of Paris. 

The twenty districts are arranged in the form of a clockwise snail-like shell.  

1        Louvre  

2        Bourse  

3        Temple

4        Hôtel de Ville  

5        The Latin Quarter  

6        Saint-Germain-des-Prés  

7        The Eiffel Tower District  

8        Elysée

9        Opéra  

10      Canal Saint-Martin  

11      République  

12      Reuilly  

13      Butte-aux-Cailles  

14      Montparnasse  

15      Vaugirard – Grenelle

16      Chaillot -Auteuil – Passy  

17      Batignoles – Monceau  

18      Montmartre  

19      Buttes-Chaumont

20      Belleville

  

My personal mini-guide to Paris:

STAY: Skip the hotel. Rent an apartment. I prefer Haven In Paris.

One of the greatest joys of Paris is the food. The boulangeries and patisseries and fresh air markets. Heck even the supermarkets are tres chic. With an apartment not only do you embrace the general je ne sais quoi of the city, but you get a kitchen where you can prepare your own meals with ingredients you purchased during your day out. *Be sure to bring reusable bags. They’re ideal not just for things you buy, but for packing!

Make sure to read the comments section. Where you stay in the city makes a huge difference. In some areas the streets empty out at night and that can be intimidating for some traveling alone. Some neighborhoods are laden with bars and cafes, so the noise might get to a family with small children. And whatever you do, make sure you pay for a good view! Go small with space, big with view. It’s all about the light in Paris. 

DO: Bring a street map and mark it up before you being wandering around. Public transportation in the city is quite good. Know where the stops are. 

Try to learn a few words of French. Merci (thank you) or merci beaucoup (thank you very much). S’il te plait (please). Hello. Goodbye… My guess is everyone, or almost everyone you meet, will speak at least some English. But isn’t it nice to try new things and meet people part way?

 

One of the most touristy things you can do in Paris is visit the Louvre and then go for the most decadent hot chocolate at Angelina. Do both!! Skip the Eiffel Tower. Yes, really. Appreciate it from afar. 

At most cafes you can choose whether to sit inside or outside depending on availability. Be prepared to squeeze in/practically share a table with others. In Paris this is normal. Don’t feel obligated to talk to them. Don’t feel put out if they or the wait staff seem unfriendly. They may be perfectly lovely, but it’s just not the way. Note the Netflix show “Emily in Paris” — the main character (an American) is charming and boisterous wanting to be friends with everyone. The French are like cats. 

How to order a coffee in Paris. Not the same thing as in America folks! Trust me so many times over on this one. 

o   Café - Typically a shot of espresso. Sometimes served w/ a sugar packet.

o   Café Americain – looking for something along the lines of what you drink at home? Here you go.  

o   Noisette - A café with a drop of milk.

Feel  free to take your time enjoying your drink. Also, you’ll likely be charged a little more to sit with your drink vs. standing with it at the bar. Bring a book or journal. Relax. This is the Parisian way. 

Make your way to Shakespeare and Company. An English-language bookstore opened in 1951 by George Whitman, located on Paris's Left Bank. It’s near Notre Dame. Give yourself plenty of time to peruse the shelves. It can be a tad crowded. Please consider getting a tote bag. The classic white tote, silkscreened with burgundy ink, features the main shop on one side. Perfect for toting baguettes and books.   

Consider taking a class with Airbnb. I’m no fan of the company, but their classes are usually really good and priced appropriately. How about a cooking class?! No experience needed. 

Do the self-guided tour of the Palais Garnier. A stunning piece of 19^th century architecture. Think Phantom of the Opera vibes. 

Wander. Stroll through gardens. Don’t overcommit to a lot of museums. There are so many and they are all extraordinary, but really if you’re there for a week pick two or three.  The Sacre-Coeur Basilica and Montmartre are really interesting, but mind your pocketbook.